Week 8
So as I said before, my class was taking an excursion to the North of Morocco. This area is referred to as the “Riff”. This word translated literally means border. With that the Riff area has an interesting history with the rest of the continent of Morocco. When the French colonized the southern regions of what is now Morocco they allowed the Spanish to colonize the north of Morocco or the Riff area. Due to the fact that Spain was not as wealthy as France, they were not able to invest that much into their colony. Because of the differences in French and Spanish control, the Riff area was never very well connected with the south. The Riff is also very mountainous and the main economy cannot come from agriculture. These different factors have created the Riff to be a place that is very undeveloped. Even the city of Al Hociema relies heavily on tourism and is now where near as large as other cities in the south. With all this in mind, European countries started to recruit Moroccan manual labor. For people living in the Riff, this was an excellent opportunity to help send money back home and provide for their families. Going abroad became very popular and over the course of history, entire family groups and villages have migrated. In this way, migration to Europe has directly affected many different communities in the Riff. This is why my group and I traveled to the north. We met an organization that dealt directly with return migrants that were having legal trouble with the Dutch government. Recently there have been a lot of different laws passed concerning retired Moroccans that have returned back to Morocco. Many times these migrants cannot read Dutch, so this organization gives legal help. It was first started by a Dutch priest but is now continued by a Moroccan lawyer and his wife. Moroccans abroad are in a super interesting position. While in their host country they are still treated as citizens by Morocco BUT their host country also provides different programs that can help them. The Dutch government is now trying to get rid of legal responsibility that they had previously given to Moroccans abroad. I, personally, think there is a huge lack of responsibility on the Moroccan government side. Although Morocco counts migrants abroad as citizens, they do not provide much legal protection within those host countries. There is also a weird desire to keep migrants abroad “Moroccan”. Second generation Moroccans are encourages keeping ties with their heritage and their parents country. In contrast the US expects integration and second generation immigrants not given any special recognition. Just some interesting differences. Also the politics of migrants abroad is very charged at this moment and very complicated.
After visiting Berkan, we went to Nador which is a city/town right next to the city of Melilla. Melilla is a Spanish enclave in Morocco. There are two Spanish enclaves in Morocco and also some military ports. Just some remnants of colonialism. Melilla is important though because Sub-saharan migrants try to pass this border and then claim asylum in Spain. Nador has become a transit city both for people and goods. We arrived on a Sunday afternoon and there were not than many people out. I walked around the market to see the smuggled goods and was surprised to see second hand things from spain. The market looked more like a garage sale. Some of my friends walked close to the border and were not even questioned by the police. Many times the police will allow goods to come across even though it’s obvious that they are smuggled. There is a very peculiar informal economy that goes on between Nador and Melilla.
After Nador we finally arrived to Al Hociema, the most beautiful part of the trip. Here we spent three days, learned some history of the area and went in a national park. Here are pictures that I took:

This place was absolutely breath taking! The mountains were right on the coast. Coming from the slopping hills of the Appalachian Mountains I never had seen cliffs going straight into the sea. We met Hakim who is a activist in the area and he explained a bit more to us how promoting Berber or Amazight culture is actually quite political. During our drive through the national park we stopped at a town called Bades. We visited an elementary school and played a game with the kids. Many of these kids will only reach the 6th grade. This makes me sad because I think education is so important, at the same time this is their way of life. More education would be beneficial but it’s not necessary if you are going to stay in the village and be a farmer or fisher. Then we went to a beach where there is a Spanish military base. Its super-duper small. The most interesting part of this beach was the “border” between Spain and Morocco. On the ground there is a thick blue rope lying about 20 meters from the Spanish base. Yes, just a rope splitting two countries. It’s hilarious actually and just re-enforces the absurdity of borders in general that were drawn by colonial powers. No one really knows about this place. No you might ask, why does Spain still have this small military base? Well, because Spain likes to have a foot on Morocco “just in case”. Ah, again, the joys of colonialism. With that we ate lunch at a village house and were served fish straight from the Mediterranean Sea. I really loved staying in al Hociema and breathing in the fresh air. I wrote some poetry regarding this excursion. Normally I don’t share my poems or whatever you want to call them, but I think they help you understand how happy this excursion made me.
In Al Hoceima
Driving around. Seeing everything beautiful.
It’s at these moments I am in awe of everything.
I cannot imagine a more beautiful place.
This area. The sea. The buildings the charm.
Mer* beckons me and entices me to go in.
She is there waiting. He is restless
Then I see a cactus and a humble home.
The cast capture of the landscape reminds me of my individuality.
I am put in my place as I see everything wonderful.
Their beginnings remind me I do not need to be powerful in
this life
Humbly I can live. In a world of my own.
What is this notion of a global traveler?
Why do I think I need this?
Here against the mountains
there sits a mosque.
Backed by the darkness of the tall beings behind.
An Ode to Al Hociema
I gasped when I first saw you
Your mountain ranges expanding far
There you sat on the coast. What could I expect?
when I saw this city, It was humble.
A beautiful garden there is was
Then those tall buildings with the red on the sides
Men sit in cafes and watch as the bus drives by
I feel the sun on my face
First it shines on the sea, then the reflections
brighten up this city
In the morning the cars hum be
there are crisp breaths taken by the walkers.
As I leave, I see those staircases of houses
homes of the rich.
Outlined in blue they sit ontop of a mountain
looking over the whole city as if to say “this is mine”.
The towering expanse in the background catches my eye
These cliffs of ridged rock. Their harsh stare as I drive by.
Nothing covers this being; it sits amoungst
its brothers all rising tall
Right on the border of the sea
The mountains give off power and justice
Then I look back and Al Hociema sits in between
A quiet city nestled safely by the surroundings
Al Hociema you surprised me, I loved you more than I thought I could.
Please keep well while I am gone.